If a question is not answered that you still have please e-mail and we will be happy to help.
Q. Do I really have to have a UV bulb?
Q. Can I keep more then one dragon together?
Q. How do I know if my dragon is healthy?
Q. What size tank should I keep an adult in?
Q. What substrate should I use?
Q. What kinds of accessories can I put in its tank?
Q. What should I feed my dragon?
Q. Where can I get feeder insects?
Q. What size insects should I feed my dragon?
Q. Do I really have to calcium dust the feeder insects?
Q. Do I have to use a multivitamin dust or a supplement?
Q. Should I keep a water dish in its tank?
Q. How can I tell if my dragon is a he or she?
Q. How hot should the basking area be?
A. Keeping it as simple as possible is best in the beginning. Just a basking area, a vertical/horizontal
climbing area and a veggie bowl is all that is needed. Dragons love to roam so don't fill their
enclosure with to many objects that block them from doing so. Also new babies have an adjustment
period when you first bring them home. The less you have in the cage for them to get use to seeing
the faster they will adjust to their new enclosures and routine.
A. Yes, UVA/UVB bulbs are a must. Dragons use the UV rays to produce D3 which aids in the
absorption of Calcium. Which is essential for healthy bone development.  
A. A healthy dragon stores fat in the base of its tail and also in the thighs, belly & pads on the top
of the head. In young babies it's hard to see because they are still small and may not have grown
enough stored fat. As long as they eat every day, shed at least once a month(preferably every 2
weeks) and are kept well hydrated they should be healthy. If they have wrinkly skin, sunken in eyes
or their hip bones start to show near the base of their tail seek a vet as soon as you can. I am
always happy to talk dragon owners through what could be going on but if you feel it is urgent
don't wait! Go right to an exotic vet!
A. Yes, as long as both are females and are around the same body sizes. If they are not similar in
size one of them will become dominant and could ultimately stress out the other(s) to death. The
dominant one will eat most of the available food & grow larger then the other(s). Its best to try
with adult females to avoid these issues. Females can also be aggressive and so always keep an
eye on them when housing multiplies for the first time.
NEVER house adult males together!
A. The minimum size of an enclosure for a single adult bearded dragon is 55 gallons. For babies
and dragons under 10 inches a 20 gallon enclosure is best.
A. We mainly use paper towels, shelf liner and newspaper. Try to avoid wood chips, gravels,
lizard litter, walnut shells, and calcium sand.
A. You should feed your dragon fresh greens (a list of OK greens to feed is available in the care
every day and as many feeder insects as they can eat within a 30 min. period (every day).
Daily feeder insects that we recommend are crickets, hornworms, roaches and superworms.
A. Most pet stores sell feeder insects as well as bait stores. You can also order online which is
cheaper in bulk. We grow our own superworms & roaches and purchase our crickets &
hornworms from our local reptile pet stores.   
A. The width between the eyes should give you a good idea of what size is best for that individual
dragon when feeding off crickets or roaches. Baby dragons can be feed 1/4 crickets or smaller
depending on the babies size. A dragon over 10 inches can eat medium to full size crickets and
medium to large silkworms, hornworms & superworms.
A. Yes, at least once a week. You can find many different brands at most pet stores. Please be
sure to find brands that are
water soluble to avoid vitamin over doses.
A. Yes, dragon's calcium levels can drop quickly and so you must dust at least 3 times a week
with calcium. If you don't wish to dust the feeder insects you can sprinkle it on there greens
daily. We dust with calcium at every feeding.
A. We don't leave free standing water in the enclosure. It causes high humidity which could later
cause respiratory infections. We mist our dragons and make sure they have fresh greens daily.
A. The way you tell a male from female is quite easy. Place the dragon on the palm of your hand
having it face away from you. Then gently lift its tail and look at their cloaca (which is the opening
it defecates from) If there are 2 bulges
above the cloaca it is a male and if there is only 1 bulge it is
a female(females bulge can be square or half circle shaped). The dragon should be at least 3
months old to be sure of sex. Many times a baby will appear female because the hemi-penal bulges
have not developed enough to show. That is why you will see a lot of dragon ads saying it's a
"possible female".
A. For babies it should be 105 to 110 degrees F. and in the low 80's to high 70's on the cool side.
For adults it has to be 95 to 100 degrees F. and in the low 80's to high 70's on the cool side.
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Q. Can my dragon get lonely?
A. No, dragons can and do live happily alone in the wild. Males are territorial and are very
aggressive with other males. Females roam but have been seen to collect in groups where there
are good resources. Pet dragons do enjoy human contact and handling but housing your dragons
separately is mush less stressful and better over all for them to be happy and healthy!